Hello everyone, and welcome back! This is the final instalment of our six-part 'B-Hive Talkin'' series, and I'm so glad you've joined me. We've covered a lot of ground, and now it's time to put all that knowledge into practice. Don't worry, it's a journey, and we're all learning together.

Let's take a moment to refresh our memories and recap what we've explored so far:

• We started by deciding that you wanted to become a beekeeper! That's a fantastic first step.
• Then, we chose your hive. Whether it's a National, WBC, Langstroth, Warre, or Top-bar, you've selected the
  perfect home for your bees.
• We talked about clothing and the essential tools you'll need. Safety and comfort are key!
• We explored where to get your bees from. Whether it's a local breeder, or a mainstream supplier like Hagens,
  you've made a great choice. No swarms this year.
• We figured out where to place your hive. Finding the ideal location is crucial for your bees' and families'
  well-being and the longevity of your hobby.
• And importantly, we discussed the value of buddying up with an experienced beekeeper. Having a mentor is invaluable.
  Joining the local BBKA group is a great choice.

Now, as we move forward, the emphasis shifts to practice, observation, and meticulous record-keeping. Take lots of notes and photos; they'll become your best reference.

Let’s delve deeper into handling your bees, starting with the all-important approach. Remember, you're entering their home, so respect is paramount...

• Your approach sets the tone. Always approach the hive from the side or rear. Approaching from the front
  disrupts their flight path and causes unnecessary stress.
• Smoker practice, don’t leave it until the day, practice lighting the smoker and keeping lit for 30 min, using the right
  fuel will help, cardboard with glue is an absolute no-no.
• Before even opening the hive, observe the entrance. Look for signs of activity, especially bees carrying pollen. This indicates
  they're raising brood, a positive sign of a healthy queen.
• And remember the 'wrecking ball' analogy. Avoid banging or dropping equipment on the hive roof. The vibrations
  can alarm the guard bees, triggering a defensive response and the release of alarm pheromones. Think of it as knocking
  on a door, you would not kick it down.
• Treat the hive with the same respect you would show a dear friend's home. Gentle movements and
  a calm demeanour go a long way.

Now, let's talk about smoke and water spray:

• As a new beekeeper, using smoke sparingly is a good practice. It helps
  control the bees. Remember that the material you burn will dictate how
  your bees respond to you. We recommend using cotton smoker fuel or
  hessian - wood pellets and lavender shavings are good options too!
• As you gain experience, you might transition to water spray, especially
  during the bees' busiest times in warm weather. That sunny, warm day just
  after lunch is a great time to use water spray to keep the bees controlled.
• Remember, bee temperament can vary. A grumpy hive one day doesn't mean
  it'll be the same the next. It is important to reflect on the conditions: the weather,
  your approach, and even the cleanliness of your suit. We don’t all wake up
  with a smile on our face, remember your beehive is a well-oiled machine
  and disruption is not welcome some days.
• Always check the hive's physical condition before opening it. Ensure
  everything is properly positioned before going in.

When it comes to the inspection itself, gaps or even small openings will set up robbing, the interest of wasps and that dreaded Asian Hornet.

• Try to light your smoker before putting on your suit. Gently puff smoke across the entrance, this gives
  the bees time to pass the message around the hive before you open it.
• Your hive tool is your constant companion. It should never leave your hand. From lifting the roof off to
  finishing by gently placing the roof back in position will all be done with the hive tool in your hand.
• Once you have removed the roof and gone into your hive, start by removing the dummy board, and
  lifting it vertically to minimise rolling the bees against the next frame.
• Next take out the next frame, most likely stores or just foundation and place it to one side in a
  frame rest. This will give you a little more space to open the frames up.

The most crucial thing to look for is eggs. A good, solid pattern of eggs confirms the presence of a healthy queen. If you struggle to see eggs, don't despair! A craft knife can be a helpful tool. Select an area next to the cells with larvae in them, then using the knife blade to gently fold back the cell walls to get a clearer view. Don’t worry the bees will repair the cells.

During your inspection, pay attention to the overall health of the hive. Look for larvae, sealed brood, honey, and pollen stores. The sealed cells' appearance can indicate if you have a healthy brood. Inspect drones for varroa mites. They're easy to handle and provide a good opportunity for practice. Open few drone cells and inspect the contents for signs of varroa. If in doubt count the floor mites. Check the worker bees' wings for signs of damage. This is a good sign that varroa levels are high, count or use one of the testers to establish the levels before considering any treatment possibilities.

If you spot the queen, you can isolate her for easier inspection. A roller or cage can be used to keep her safe. Do not put her in a cage then into your pocket, put her on the top of the frames to be tended by her worker bees. Additionally, you will not be able to forget her or close the colony up until you have released her back into the hive.

When shaking bees off frames, always do so within the hive to avoid them taking to the open air and further disrupting your inspections. A sharp, downward shake is usually sufficient between a wide space that is two or three frames wide. Practice picking up drones; it'll help you become more comfortable handling the queen, when the time is right, approach the bee from behind aiming to pick it up between the forefinger and thumb, and take swift decisive actions, don’t hesitate or the bee will simply run away.

Let's dive into the sweet reward of beekeeping - harvesting honey! This is what many of us look forward to as part of keeping bees, and it's so much more than just collecting a product. It's about sharing the fruits of your bees' labour and contributing to your community.

Think about it: you can enjoy your own pure, delicious honey, a natural sweetener far superior to anything shop-bought. You can share precious jars with friends and family, a gift that truly comes from the heart. And if you have an abundance, you can even sell your honey at local markets or shops, spreading the joy and health benefits to a wider audience. This is where your beekeeping truly blossoms, creating a ripple effect of sweetness and well-being.

So, how do we get to that point? It all starts with knowing when to add supers.

As your hive thrives and summer approaches, you'll notice a significant increase in bee activity. Remember, a healthy queen can lay up to 2,000 eggs a day! This rapid growth can quickly lead to overcrowding in the brood chamber, a precursor to swarming if left unchecked. Instead, we want to direct that expansion upwards, into the supers, where the honey will be stored, not allowing the bees to fill the brood chamber with honey.

Here's how we guide them:
• Queen Excluder: This is your secret weapon. It's a grid that allows worker bees to pass through but prevents
  the larger queen from entering the supers. This ensures that the honey supers remain brood-free. You can choose
  from plastic or metal queen excluders, both come with their own benefits.
• Brood Chamber Dynamics: Bees naturally store pollen and honey above the developing brood. This creates a
  readily available food source for the larvae. We're simply extending this natural behaviour by providing
  additional space above the queen excluder.

When to Add Supers:
• The ideal time to add your first super is when the brood chamber is
  about 60-70% full. This gives the bees ample space to continue growing
  and storing honey.
• You'll know it's time to add another super when the first one is nearly full
  and most of the cells are capped with wax. Capped cells indicate that the honey
  has reached the proper moisture content. You will also be able to see if you
  add a second super before the first is full they will chimney the supers,
  filling just the centre ones. To overcome this, as the centre ones get capped
  move them to the outside and the outside frames to the middle before adding
  the second super.

Extracting, there are several ways to extract or make good use of your honey…
• Comb honey, the process is simple, take a frame of sealed honey from the supers and cut it into sections weighing
  4oz or 100grams. Neatly packaged this is probably the easiest and most beneficial way to sell and eat honey, the cells
  are constructed using pollens and propolis -the best most nutritious parts of the beehive.
• Next would be the more familiar - uncapping and extracting your honey. This involves uncapping the cells
  of the sealed honey in the supers, the best way is by using the uncapping knife or using an uncapping fork.
  Practice will be the key, decide on what you feel is most comfortable to use.

Next the uncapped frames can be placed in a spinner or extractor that separates the honey from the beeswax cells. From the extractor, the honey will then pass through a filter designed to remove larger pieces, to produce that clear golden-coloured honey.

It is worth considering that although not so visually appealing the honey is best left in its natural state, with the bits and pieces in, less filtering is by far a more beneficial product. However, should you wish to filter your honey for clear jars of gorgeous honey, most beekeepers will use a filter or sieve to pour their honey into a food grade bucket (often with a honey gate) to store their honey ready for jarring.

It is important to remember that not all honey looks the same. For example, some supermarket honey is heated and filtered to give it a colour that is appealing and to prevent it setting and giving it a longer shelf life by appearance, which in turn reduces the benefit of honey, supermarkets are slowly recognising the importance of local honey.

Benefits of Sharing and Selling Your Honey:
• Sharing with Friends and Family:
    o It's a heartfelt gift that shows you care, for thousands of years bees have been the only insect that provides
       a food source for humans. They provide us with a part of nature that we would otherwise not be able to collect,
       nectar and pollens would be difficult to collect in any other way. However, the health benefits to humans are well established.
    o This natural healthy sweetener is the link from nature to our table, it should be shared, and please do
       not think that you are depriving bees of essential stores, we will cover this in a separate article and there is a balance
       that is easily achieved. What it does do is it creates a connection to nature and your beekeeping journey.
• Selling at Local Markets and Shops:
    o There are no downsides to being a beekeeper, the environmental benefits, and with the excess honey your family,
       friends and the local economy benefit. Just by being at a local market encourages visitors to buy honey and other
       products from the hive such as candles and pollens. This helps to educate people about the importance of bees and
       pollinators, and is also one of the pure joys of being a beekeeper. I have never met anyone who does not light up at
       the mention of beekeeping. You can see the joy across the faces of everyone who engages with you. It helps connect
       people to their food and nature, and the added bonus is It helps offset the costs of beekeeping.

Remember, adding supers is a sign of a healthy, thriving hive. It's a step towards harvesting the sweet reward of your hard work and sharing it with the world. And by sharing and selling your honey, you're not just providing a delicious product; you're fostering a connection to nature and supporting a sustainable practice. So, get ready to experience the joy of harvesting your own honey and spreading sweetness throughout your community!

Moving frames within the hive – when and why we do it. Healthy-thriving hives do require some help from us when it comes to frames and foundation.

Let's look at the why first. Your bees will work the frames they are given in the order that are available by using whatever resources are available at that time of year, pollens and nectar as well as propolis and water. All these are essential to the hive and the well-being of the colonies.

When your nuc of bees arrives, install it as previously explained and move frames as indicated, over the coming years frames will need to be replaced. This can be because the queen has laid in them a lot causing a discolouration of the foundation, but more importantly, every time a bee emerges from a cell she leaves behind a cacoon. Over a period of two years this can reduce the size of the cell - small cells produce small bees. In itself, this is not so dire except that it is not what the bees want. There are lots of theories about small cell foundation producing fewer varroa but in my experience it just produces smaller bees. The life cycle stays the same and that means the development cycle of the varroa remains the same in a worker cell. The point is you would not store food for your children in dirty cupboards or encourage them to sleep in dirty beds, it’s the same principle. Our bees, after all, are a shared community a shared lesson.

Change the foundation every two years, it is often easier to make up new frames for the new foundation than spend hours cleaning frames ready to accept new foundation. Try to remember the principle of bee space, always keep your foundation straight in the frame, if it curves it will throw out the next frame, and this will create havoc within the hive.

To summarise:
• The family of bees require help not constant interference for no practical reason
• Focus on the health of your hive.
• Use smoke gently and sparingly and effectively.
• Keep your hive tool handy.
• Practice your smoker technique.
• Take detailed notes and photos.
• And before leaving, ensure everything is secure and properly positioned.

Remember, beekeeping is a continuous learning process. Enjoy the journey, and don't be afraid to ask for help. Thank you for joining me on this 'B-Hive' adventure, and happy beekeeping!

We sincerely hope you will see the benefits of joining your local beekeeping association (BBKA) a wealth of established information and help, and don’t forget the opportunities for learning are enormous, right across the board from a beginner to competent beekeeping tests, through to the many practical and theory exams. They organise the exceptional, well attended and organised Spring convention too - https://www.bbka.org.uk/planning-your-bbka-spring-convention - this year it is 4th – 6th April 2025, with lots of informative workshops, lectures and free talks as well as an excellent show for beekeeping equipment.

CATCH UP ON PREVIOUS PART'S OF OUR B-HIVE TALKIN'...